I've not forgotten this!
Basic theory suggests that for any river spot like this you need a range that bets for value (pretty easy - any boat, possibly T8 read dependant) a range that bluffs, and a range that gives up, it's important that you don't bet this river with your entire range otherwise your flop/turn barreling frequencies will have to be much lower than average (so you get to the river with sufficient hands to bet for value to allow you to bet every hand as bluff.
My Range OTR includes EVERY boat, with the exception of 44 (and 64 v unlikely) T8, missed flush draws and ofc a fair few bluffs - mostly that involve blockers/FD's/Gutshots but I've called an UTG open from MP so those hands do kind of smash my range, I'd play every combo basically like this here as well so my range is wide.
So every hand that isn't a boat, or T8 (T8 is a unique hand here) I have to divide between my range that "gives up" and that bluffs. Having already established I can't bluff everything need to look at the different hands I will have.
Now, naturally you could say - surely the first hands we put into our bluffing range here will be our no-pair hands, hands that have literally no chance of winning at showdown -You Can't Win if You Check (and so on) and the hands with the highest amount of showdown value are the ones that go into the range to check back. You could break down your range here OTR and find a pretty suitable frequency using those guidelines pretty easily.
However card removal is an important thing to consider here, as any hand that involves the
means you're opponent has a lot less "folding combo's" as OP with NFD is quite a big part of his range we want to bluff off. By the same measure, any hand we have that includes a 9 or a 7 is a much more desirable hand to bluff with as we block two crucial hands.
So a Hand like this one, with three important blockers seems like a hand we should bluff with? but are there hands in our range that NEED to bluff more than this one, is my main question.