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In October 2007 as an innocent 18 year old fresh out of private school, I spent ten weeks in rural Kenya, as the only white man in a 50 mile radius, on a self organised project, teaching in a girls boarding school. I loved it so much I went back the following summer.

I kept a hand written diary which I thought had been tragically lost, but I found it recently, and since I anticipate a lull in my normal diary over the next few weeks, I thought I'd write up all/most/some of it here, partly as a personal record, partly to relive the experience for myself, but also for your interest and enjoyment. I don't expect much or any interaction thought it'd of course be extremely welcome - will answer any questions I can!

I would say I was pretty different then, and it'll be interesting to see whether that comes out in my writing. All my bad qualities were far worse back then I can assure you! I had been in a private school bubble all my life, never even had friends who weren't from privileged backgrounds in England - so I couldn't have been further from home comforts.

Before I start, let me tell you a bit about how the project came about and about the school a bit.

I was in a Church youth group for sometime in my teenage years. One of the guys that ran it (Lee) had some connection with a University there, and had been over on a church mission. It was an extremely religious area and he knew of a primary school right next door.

I was looking for a project to get stuck into on my gap year, and wanted as far an authentic experience as I could get. So when I learned that he could set me up over there for 10 weeks, I grabbed it with both hands.

The school were happy to have the help. It was a private girls boarding school for ages 8-13. Relatively, it was a really good school. I was a volunteer of course, and paid for accommodation in a guest house nearby. I was looked after by the owner of the guest house, Simon, but he didn't live there.

I haven't re read this diary since I wrote it almost 8 years ago. The first few entries aren't so interesting, about the journey etc, I think I'll pick and choose the best bits to post. So we'll start the day before I start the teaching.

OK here goes...

14th October 2007

"My name is Alex and I am saved!"

My first experience of church in Kenya! I woke at 730 for breakfast and a shower (which was long overdue - not a great experience, lukewarm and a trickle - I think baths might be the way to go!). Nancy Mutungu (head teacher) picked me up around 930 and took me to the schools church. We joined the service halfway through and I sat near the back and tried to keep a low profile. Being the only white person there, this was never really going to happen and it wasn't long before I was brought to the front of the church and made to introduce myself.

"My name is Alex and I am saved!"

This is the standard way of introducing oneself Lee had told me, not something even he, as a vicar, was comfortable with. Luckily, they didn't think I was too odd, and gave me a round of applause. The hymns were enjoyable to sing and were what I expected. After about 4 bars, you could predict how the rest of it was going to go and the refrains nearly always consisted of a "Oh Praise the Lord!" sort of chant. People harmonised (rarely successfully), clapped along (sometimes in time) and danced and swayed too. I had a flashback to the scene in Borat in the church...

I found the whole experience quite enjoyable, certainly something I can bear to sit through once a week. Though I think I might be expected to go every day! The worship was a lot more passionate than English worship and they persuaded me to comeback to their church next sunday and no-one elses!

Nancy then took me to the school and introduced me to each class. As we entered each classroom, the children were all sitting at their desks working (remember this is Sunday), in complete silence, under no teacher supervision. As good as gold. They all stood up as one when we entered.

"Hello girls, how are you?" Nancy said.

"Fine thank you Mrs Mutungu". In perfect unison. The discipline was first class. Nancy introduced me, and the children were  filled with joy when she told them I would be teaching them. Mr Alex I was now called. I then spoken to them, telling them where I was from and that I would be teaching them Maths, Music, Computer and P.E. Their eyes lit up and they started clapping. Nancy then asked them to repeat some of the information I had told them (like a listening test). Given that English is their third language (behind KiSwahili and Kikuru), I was mightily impressed that they could all recite all that I'd said. A couple of the classes even sang a song for me when requested! The class sizes ranged between 12 and 35. Very small compared to most Kenyan schools.

Most of my nerves about teaching were subsided by this brief tour and my spirits were high as Nancy took me into her home.

I met her husband, daughter, granddaughter and her son, who offered to take me out before lunch. He had his own car and said I could drive it which sounded exciting. We picked up a few people on our drive through Kabare (the village) and had a full car by the time we reached the edge of Kabare. I soon realised that this was a social drive, almost like he wanted to show me off to his friends, rather than to see any sights.

I was to drive back, however by this time, there were now 6 other people to take back. 2 guys shared the passenger seat, while 4 people squeezed in the back. The car was not built for this and nor were the roads! All mud and full of potholes. I didn't once leave 2nd gear.

We stopped at a bar overlooking a beautiful valley and had a drink. I offered to pay for my drink but they took that to mean I would pay for all their drinks! At 50p a drink I wasn't too fussed, but I quickly saw I would have to be careful where money was concerned. Lee had warned me not to be afraid to put my foot down.

It was 330 by the time we got back, and though lunch was OK, it made me appreciate Simon's cooking even more. I made my excuses and went home after that, I still feel jet lagged so needed a nap. I had a nice dinner with Simon and Graham (A vicar sharing the guest house with me for a few days) and then played three games of backgammon with Graham before retiring to bed (having had a bath with some very dirty coloured water...)

In first ✋

Should be decent. Try not to change any bits please, though I'm sure you won't.

Lolled at trying to keep a low profile in an area where there were no white people for 50 miles :)

This is going to be very interesting.

WAL, ending up on a jolly with Kenya's answer to Vin  :D

   This is great. How pleased you must be to find the diary and many thanks for sharing.

In

This should be well worth reading, thanks Alex.


 I had been in a private school bubble all my life, never even had friends who weren't from privileged backgrounds in England


All things considered, you've turned out pretty well, I'd say. That sort of upbringing does not always end well, or with a well balanced adult. Your parents must be incredibly proud.

"Church Youth Group". By choice, or wish? Do you still attend church, or was it just a phase you passed though?

I attended Church for around 8 years as a child, but only because I was forced to. I've never attended since, though more & more, I think I should. Not because I'm religious, but it just feels like something nagging away in my mind, essentially a good, or at least well-intended, thing. Spending too long in Casinos or playing poker online just feels like it needs some balance.  

Glad you found the diary, Kenya sounds an interesting place. Quite fancy going on a safari there one day.

Look forward to hearing more, it already seems quite an experience 

It was all because of music. I was in the church choir from ages 8 or something until my voice broke at 13/14. I was head chorister at the time. It was never about the religious side of it, I've always loved church music, so no it was not a phase. I only go at Christmas now, but still listen to the music and enjoy it with my family.

Interesting angle about the upbringing. You make it sound like my parents must be proud of me to have come through that upbringing and still be alright! I think they would think of it as the opposite! I jolly well should be alright given they upbringing I had!

There's so many hidden things that private school has given me, it goes way beyond the grades. But without some perspective at some point in your life, you will struggle in many situations in the real world I think. Many of my peers will have never even experienced that yet though. Straight from school -> Oxbridge -> London being a city banker, they may coast through life without ever leaving the bubble.

I have had this gap year experience plus 3 separate travelling jaunts (South America, South East Asia, Central America) to thank for getting me out of the bubble, and of course poker may've been the biggest influence yet.

17th October 2007

School is going well. The level of Maths is very poor (Mean around 55%) but English and Science much better (mean 65% and 70%). The Staffroom banter is top notch. I get on really well with the two guys in my corner (Mr Njagi and Mr Githigi). Mr Njagi is outrageously sexist. Here are some of his best quotes.

On Women

Him "You have a girlfriend?"
Me "Yes"
"Are you married?"
"No"
"But you are engaged, yes?"
"No"
"Why not? Do you not want to marry her?"
"We have only been together a short while, I don't know yet"
"Do you want to marry a Kenyan?"
"Probably not"
"I can find you a beautiful one, educated"
"I already have a beautiful one"
"But you say you are not sure?"
....
"Do you beat her"
"No!"
"Why not?"
"It is illegal in England to beat someone"
"Yes, but women need to be disciplined. Were you canned in school?"
"No"
"Why not"
"That is illegal too"
"But at home, yes?"
"No it's illegal"
"I know I know, but AT HOME?"
"....."
"Children and women need to have more discipline in England. It is not a problem in Kenya, women are defenceless, there is nothing they can do, except leave the husband, but then they have no money"

Him "How do you keep your relationship secret from her parents"
Me "I dont, they know we are together"
"They approve?! (laughs) If Mr Githigi saw a boy with his daughter, he would run for his gun!"

***

Everyday the culture differences are becoming more apparent.

-The girls have their candidate number sown into their uniform.
-Between classes, they have to run everywhere (to prevent dawdling).
-They get up at 345am, start reading at 4, breakfast at 6, porridge, 11, lunch 1, bed by 9.
-Saturdays they help clean the school and have their head shaved ( yes all the girls had shaven heads so they're not distracted by doing their hair).
-Sundays is church at 7am until 9am.
-They have to wear a white sheet (like a ghost!) if they speak the wrong language (English Monday-Thursday, Kiswahili Friday-Sunday).
-They get beaten, and this is encouraged by the parents.
-Prayer Day - set aside for wishing eldest pupils luck in their national exams
-Some have badges saying "Best in Maths/ English" etc and also "cleanest pupil".

When I got home yesterday, I asked Simon how we was. He said "OK, but I gotta de Maleria dis mornin". His casual tone and lack of panic told me that this happens regularly (about twice a year I established).

I had my first contact with the outside world after school today. Made use of the one internet connection in the village in the principals office to send an email home. 1 hour and 20 minutes of getting disconnected, reconnected etc, and the email was sent!

Enjoying this Alex. Looking forward to more.

In, do we get a video montage at the end?

That conversation about women was hilarious. Sounds like Kenyans have some GREAT banter!

17th October 2007

School was good today, they finished their exams so I got to do PE and Computer lessons for the first time. In PE I played and taught volleyball with standard 4 (the youngest class), that was good fun and the kids really enjoyed it.

More good staff banter with Mr Njagi. He told me to bring Helen (girlfriend at the time) to Kenya one day so he can spit on her! I asked why, he said "to bless her"!

Graham left today, I'll miss his company in the evenings. The solitude didn't last for long. Out of the blue, 5 men walked into the house and apparently would be spending the night here! Although slightly taken aback, I recognised them from the church service I'd just been in.

This was a good and actually enjoyable experience. The service lasted 2 hours and was full of lively singing, dancing and even some instrumental backing. This was rarely in the same key as the singing but enriched the worship somehow! By the end I was getting into the spirit of it, clapping and even the occasional foot tap! Oh dear...i'm on a slippery slope to dedicating my life to God!

I feel such a fraud saying things like this, but as long no-one here finds out, I am safe under my "I am saved" cover...for now...

There is thunder and lightning coming from outside now so I will get some rest.

Don't understand that last line lol

really enjoying this mate, please keep posting.

Not had a chance to read but will soon. Love the concept. Great idea

Course they were proud of you, but they thought you had turned out well because of your boarding school & privileged education & upbringing, whereas, to a degree, you probably turned out ok in spite of those things. 

Slight diversion here, but at what stage in your life do you expect to relegate poker to an occasional hobby, & go into the more traditional world, in business or whatever, & make your mark that way?

I'm interested in what experiences you've had with privately educated people that makes you think this way. Or is it just some stereotype? I absolutely do not think I'm an exceptional case, anything but.

I really attribute a lot of my success (other than the lucky part ;) ) down to my education. It may seem ridiculous. But I think I got a kickstart because I got a staking deal very early on. And I got that deal because of my diary - I realised very early on that some degree of self promotion was required in this industry, and my ability to write and be articulate meant that diary was popular. So when James Keys had a big win in Australia and was looking for horses, he picked me having never seen me play, just from "knowing me" through that diary. And I worked really hard at getting good because of the work ethic instilled in me as a child.

There's hundreds of other things but I fear I'm going to get ridiculed and there'll be loads of "I'm x too and I didn't go to private school" responses.

I'm not saying you need private school to have those qualities - I'm saying they gave me a big headstart. For the record, you mentioned boarding school - I never actually went to boarding school. My mother wouldn't have it, though it was definitely my Dad's intention.

To answer your other question, I expect to relegate poker to a hobby quiet soon, intellectually, I'm very bored with it, and don't see much of a future in it generally. I want more from life, and I definitely want stability and not to worry about how I'm going to feed my kids in x years time.

Funnily enough, I'm actually thinking about going into teaching. Anyone know whether my history in poker will make that difficult? I know tom-tom went to some trouble to making himself "un-google-able" when he started his course.

In spite of? lol.

What's wrong with that sort of upbringing?

Can't see that poker would have any impact on getting a teaching job to be honest mate. If anything there is big demand for good teachers. I think it would be more of an issue in the corporate world where it's easy to dismiss people with anything less than a conventional CV from school onwards, there is a lot of competition so they can afford to.

cf on here. Charles went from playing poker a lot to now a maths teacher (partly why he is on less)

could easily see the clear links from pot odds and the like to teaching maths....

19th October 2007

A really good day. Teaching was great fun. I was with standard 4 most of the day. We went through their Maths exam, did corrections etc. Then played volleyball and after lunch did Music. They were abe to recite perfectly both songs I had taught them earlier in the week. It was amazing and they wanted me to teach them another! It seemed they really did enjoy it. After the lesson the kids circled around me and asked me loads of questions. I struggled with a couple of them - how many countries did I cross to get here! And how much did my flight cost in Kenyan shillings (290x135 on the spot!). I have really taken to them and they seem to have taken to me too!

I planned to meet up with Mr Njagi tomorrow. I found out he was engaged to be married and tomorrow he was going to slaughter a goat and offer it to his father in-law-to-be! They seem to have to buy their wives off the wives' fathers! He wants to show me the goat before he slaughters it...

They have some odd traditions here. I asked the kids today what they were doing tomorrow (saturday) and they said they were cleaning the school and getting their heads shaved! Some day off!

23rd October

The eldest pupils have apparently been complaining that I haven't been teaching them. So, today, the headmistress told me to follow her and led me to a classroom full of at least 50 girls between 12 and 16. I was slightly worried at this stage, but it was only when she told me they wanted me to tell them about ADOLESCENCE, that I got really worried!

The little I do know about this subject I really did not want to be discussing...What did they expect me to say? Anyway, I made them do the work and ask me questions, which was good because they were very shy and I only got a couple of quite easy questions (Were you afraid of girls?) I left as soon as I could with my brow rather more moist than when I arrived, but I daresay I will be back once they have prepared some more questions to make me even more uncomfortable.

I'm learning some Kiswahili with Mrs Mwendia and have a couple of trips planned for the next two weekends, but generally time is going really slowly and there's such a lot of free time, I'm getting quite bored. When I'm busy, it's great but life is so slow and relaxed here...

Never be afraid to talk your mind buddy just because of your upbringing, whatever that may be. Genuinely you don't come across like this is an issue for you, just reading the sentence above it come across to me in that way. People who are Jealous of peoples upbringing are just Idiots to put it mildly 

After reading your diary (and this one so far) it seems you've had an interesting life to date, but it seems like you've worked hard to get there. Your work ethic deffo comes through in your writing.

Find the discussion on the 'headstart' thing from a public school education really interesting.

I went to comprehensive school but in later life (late 20s) went on a couple of cricket tours representing Old Merchant Taylors as a mate went there and I guess they were short of a player or two.

They weren't all necessarily the most intelligent people I ever met, they weren't all necessarily in the highest echelon of earners but they had something about them in terms of confidence, bearing, charisma that was very attractive. I want to say something along the lines of feelings of entitlement but that has a negative connotation that I don't mean.

Definitely something in the system that imparts an underlying strength of character and purpose in a 'who else would run everything anyway ?' kind of way

Anyway, glad I've had this opportunity to contribute in such an articulate way to the sum of human knowledge.

Yes it was interesting to hear Tikays views, but he seems to have prematurely bowed out of the discussion...

Behave. :)

I was aware that I was inadvertently derailing a lovely thread, so I decided to either say no more, or, more likely, continue the debate in your diary.

You'd be most welcome to, sir

Probs my fault for throwing the question in there sorry lol.

There are a fair few public school types on here including myself, don't see the big sweat to be honest. I'm an in betweener really, my parents were old skool working class farmers who did well in life and wanted their kids to have a catholic education that was better than any local school could provide. No more no less....

Anyway, great thread, carry on please  :)

Interesting read Alex.

Not to sure if you have a degree, if not how would you feel about going to University for 3 years?

Would be a noble profession though and the holidays aren't to shabby either:P

The great thing is you have total freedom and flexibility to choose what you want to do, which poker has afforded you.

There is no wrong decisions only what is right for you, and whatever you decide poker will always be there even if it's only part-time, or to get you through further education.



 

 

One of the few things I envy in other people is their education.

Id swop you my private school education for your tash.

The tash would get me further.

They have private schools that far north?

Tom, what did you education involve?

Must mean borstal..

That's actually quite a complex question Alex, and the answer depends on how you define education. I only had about 6 months in school but I've spent a lifetime learning things and it's been wonderful.

For me, the more I learn, the more I appreciate life, the more in awe I am of the wonder and beauty of the world, and (hopefully) the more tolerant and compassionate I become, and I think that, by and large, that is true for everyone.

When I said I envy some people their education, I think I mean that it must be fantastic to have such a flying start at appreciating and enjoying everything. (I hope that makes sense).

I don't see anything at all negative in getting a good education or "being posh" as tikay calls it, but I do believe that you have to have that work hard, play hard mentality to to benefit from it.

For the record, I think my education was excellent, (if a little unusual) but I learned my lessons so slowly, and there is so much that interests me that I will now never quite 'get'.

What I really need is to go around again.


There is so much more I would like to say in this post, but I think I've made it confusing enough already.

Fascinating stuff Tom. I won't pull a Tikay and say how well you've turned out in spite of your upbringing lol. Certainly an inspiration though. You said you had more to say, I'd very much like to here it - perhaps in your thread would be better - if you did feel like sharing more.

26th October 2007

Instead of school today, I went to Nairobi for the day with Nancy and two guys from the college. The journey was awful. The roads are terrible and you have to sit on basically a wooden plank the whole 4 hours. Whenever we reach a stretch of tarmac and get some speed up, it's short-lived because there are speed bumps all over the place which take you (and the driver apparently) by complete  surprise as who would put speed bumps on a motorway!? So you get flung into the air (obviously no seat belts) at random intervals - not fun.

What's worse is that we keep stopping on the way to pick up and drop people off or do a bit of shopping or stop to see Nancy's house and then the house she's building for her son. Both are complete dumps. I can see I'm lucky to be living in Kabare which is clearly a well off village by these standards - there is power the majority of the time, and when it rains at night - I don't get wet.

Nairobi is a shithole. It is honestly such a dump. The buildings all look as if they are about to collapse, it smells like a sewer, it was hot and sticky and generally an unpleasant place to be. We got dropped off just outside the centre and got a "Matatu" the rest of the way.

These Matatu's are minivans in terrible condition and driven far too fast. They invariably have one angry Kenyan hanging out the side trying to pick up more passengers when the bus is already jam packed full of dirty sweaty Kenyans. Just when you think there surely can't be room for anyone else, he manages to squeeze another small family and a few chickens in. The driver drives off when he is ready, usually when he's finished his sandwich or something, regardless of whether there are still people boarding the bus. These people have to jump in while the driver honks his horn at random intervals to get other cars to move out of his way.

There is no concept of lanes. In Kabare (my village) if two cars are coming at each other, the one who is going faster will stay on the road, the other will sheepishly move to the side of the road (left or right depending on the condition of each side) and waits for the other car to drive by (again usually honking his horn randomly). However, in Nairobi, there is so much traffic, they do have a concept of left and right, but cars generally just go where there is space.

Crossing the road is not advisable. It generally involves a mad sprint and praying to the gods.

Once the Matatu is on its way, the guy hanging out the side will get in and request money from everyone who's just boarded. They seem to have a remarkable memory about who's paid and who hasn't. He might not have change for someone but always goes back to them once he's got change and remembers who's owed what change etc. The fare is usually about 15p but much higher for a white man.

It was an experience, but I'll be happy to not experience it again!

How much more for a white man do you remember?  A friend of mine spent time in Delhi with work, he tells me how they used to barter with the cycle taxi things (I forget their name) for ages, and would after think 'I've just spent 5 minutes argueing over 20p for a trip that I could of walked in the time I spent argueing!'  The whole point of bartering them down he said though was because you just knew they were taking the piss with the price because you were white and do obviously had too much money.

Think it was something like 7 or 8 times as expensive. I always haggle when I know I'm getting mugged off for being white regardless of how much it is on principle.

Found some printed photos from this trip so I'll get them scanned in and will post tomorrow.

Seems like I touched a nerve there.......;)

When time permits, we'll debate it further on your diary, I don't want to derail this. I already mentioned one matter on your Diary, which you have so far studiously avoided replying to......

Hope these pictures will give you a much clearer idea of the sort of environment I was in - the school, the girls, the countryside, the food etc.

Standard 4, the youngest class. This was my favourite class to teach.

(http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc416/cambridgealex/Kenya%202007/1923562_15912955563_4743_n_zpsggwl5rdp.jpg) (http://s1210.photobucket.com/user/cambridgealex/media/Kenya%202007/1923562_15912955563_4743_n_zpsggwl5rdp.jpg.html)

The countryside, this was taken just round the corner of my guesthouse, which was also just a couple of minutes away from the school

(http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc416/cambridgealex/Kenya%202007/1923562_15912950563_4468_n_zpsfgaeoxoj.jpg) (http://s1210.photobucket.com/user/cambridgealex/media/Kenya%202007/1923562_15912950563_4468_n_zpsfgaeoxoj.jpg.html)

My best pal, teacher Njagi, with a gift for me. I took this home (live) on the bus in a plastic bag and gave it to my neighbour, who "prepared" it for me.

(http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc416/cambridgealex/Kenya%202007/1923562_15912980563_6078_n_zps0qknjewc.jpg) (http://s1210.photobucket.com/user/cambridgealex/media/Kenya%202007/1923562_15912980563_6078_n_zps0qknjewc.jpg.html)

Staff lunch. This wasn't every day, but it was the most common dish. The right hand dish is called Ugali, a maize based food - it tastes like it looks - horrendous.

(http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc416/cambridgealex/Kenya%202007/1923562_15913015563_7964_n_zpshhd1hwux.jpg) (http://s1210.photobucket.com/user/cambridgealex/media/Kenya%202007/1923562_15913015563_7964_n_zpshhd1hwux.jpg.html)

And one last one - church

(http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc416/cambridgealex/Kenya%202007/1923562_15913085563_2544_n_zps8ldzpxpd.jpg) (http://s1210.photobucket.com/user/cambridgealex/media/Kenya%202007/1923562_15913085563_2544_n_zps8ldzpxpd.jpg.html)

More to come but will spread them out over the course of the diary.

28th October 2007

Good weekend. Went to the castle today with Shadreck and his friend Fred. Amazing place, it's not actually a castle, just a huge forest with some cottages at the top. The cottages are delightful - like little self contained BnBs overlooking Mount Kenya and acres and acres of lush green forests and a gorgeous gorge complete with a waterfall to go with it. Not that Kabare has much hustle and bustle, but if it did, this would be the perfect hideout - completely serene and quiet with very few signs of life - no wonder Queen Elizabeth II wanted to stay here during the war (so I was told...)

(http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc416/cambridgealex/Kenya%202007/1923562_15912940563_3922_n_zpscurdvwxu.jpg) (http://s1210.photobucket.com/user/cambridgealex/media/Kenya%202007/1923562_15912940563_3922_n_zpscurdvwxu.jpg.html)

The journey to and from was interesting. On the way there we ran out of petrol and had to wait for Fred to turn up with a top up! This was awkward because where we stopped was a pretty rough area I think and I kept getting hassled by drunk kenyans asking for money etc, and it was really annoying. I am really getting sick of being starred at everywhere I go.

Anyway, the journey back was worse - we broke down in the same place again and, in the dark this time, had to wait for a mechanic to come and fix the car. I was getting hassled again, this time by annoying kids who would follow me wherever I went. I got really annoyed by this and actually told them to piss off but they didn't understand this and proceeded to mock me.

By the time I got home, I was very hungry and ready for bed, at just 8pm!

really enjoying this so far, its one thing i really want to do at some point sooner rather than later, go and see the world!

31st October 2007

School is still good although I'm slightly worried that it'll become a rutt where my day to day routine is the same. Something of note usually happens each day however and future weekend trips promise adventure at the very least.

Today, Njagi and I were planning his trip to England where he will stay with me for free and work in our garden! I told him we had a lawn mower, he replied "Ai no, I will use my hands, I am faster than a machine"!

He told me a story about a Kenyan who married twin sisters at the same time! Here followed another classic conversation-

Njagi: "Do you pay a lot of money for wives in England?"
Me: "You don't have to pay anything"
"Why not?"
"Because that's like treating them like property"
"Ai, my property."

Njagi: "Do you pay a lot of money for wives in England?"
Me: "You don't have to pay anything"
"Why not?"
"Because that's like treating them like property"
"Ai, my property."


^^
Made me giggle. Thanks!

'Paying for a wife' in the form of a dowry (or whatever the term is locally) is still common practice in loads of countries...

5th November 2007

Apologies if this offends anyone, it was my private thoughts not intended to be made public

Life is quite up and down at the moment. The religious aspect of the culture here is beginning to irritate me a lot. The dancing and clapping is just getting too much. It annoys me how much time and energy these people waste on talking basically to themselves. Praying has always bothered me, how any sane person can sit down and talk to someone who isn't visible I'll never understand. I suppose that is what faith is. But I don't believe in anything you can't see or touch. Science explains everything and anything that science can't explain is just stuff we haven't worked out or understood yet.

Yet I find myself saying grace before meals and singing along with the gyms and saying the prayers with everyone else. I feel a real fraud. But there is nothing I can do about it.

In fact, as I write this and reflect, there isn't much to be happy about. Teaching is becoming increasingly dull, Njagi is the only staff member I ever have a proper conversation with. I have really enjoyed it thus far but I may have got everything out of the experience I am going to get. Financially is not good either. I bought a suit in Embu on saturday which was cheap and is nice, but I didn't really need it and don't have much spare money.

I'm hoping to climb Mount Kenya, (which I can see from my window!) so that will cost a lot (however it is something to look forward to).

Saturday was really fun with Njagi. After shopping with got quite drunk in a hotel which was funny. However sunday was very lonely, slept most of the day and read a lot too. In the evening, Simon had left something for me so was all by myself, there was no power and I was sitting there in the dark, alone, listening to really depressing music.

I desperately needed company so went to Robinsons hose and watched some Mr Bean episodes which cheered me up. His daughter (9) is so sweet, I really like their family.

9th November 2007

A lot can change in a week! Am feeling much happier than when I last wrote here. This week has been busy by Kenyan standards, so I haven't had much time just sitting and getting depressed or bored.

On Wednesday, after school Mr Muchira and I started a small game of volleyball. More and more people joined in and watched and after about an hour literally the whole school was watching. I said it was England vs Kenya and got them all chanting England! They were so enthusiastic and happy - all cheering and clapping and screaming. It was one of the nicest moments i've had here.

(http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc416/cambridgealex/Kenya%202007/1923562_15913005563_7415_n_zps9fbddsrq.jpg) (http://s1210.photobucket.com/user/cambridgealex/media/Kenya%202007/1923562_15913005563_7415_n_zps9fbddsrq.jpg.html)

Tomorrow they have a Prayers Day which is like speech day and today all the classes were preparing songs, acts or dances to perform to the parents. I was with Class 4 most of the day, preparing them to sing Amazing Grace and even made a small dance routine! I was there until about 6 then on the way home played a small game of badminton with some of the college guys.

I then went back to school after my dinner to teach them more songs (Head, shoulders, knees and toes!) and hear them perform in from of the whole school. It was really rewarding getting more involved at school.

On Sunday I am going to Kimunye with Njagi to get measured up for some trousers!

Really enjoying this Alex.

Plus, when you lose it again you will have a copy here.

10th November 2007

This week the eldest pupils are taking national exams and today the school held a prayer day where all parents visit the school and a posh (by Kenyan standards) ceremony is held solely to wish them luck for the forthcoming exams.

As well as an unnecessary amount of prayers, the event also includes songs, a rather too enthusiastic sermon (although this is second nature now) and entertainment provided by the girls. It was great hearing the class 4's Amazing Grace but enjoyed other acts too. Girls had taken western songs such as R Kelly "The Worlds Greatest" and Backstreet Boys and rewritten the words either to praise God or to wish their school mates good luck. A very spirited occasion.

In an already bizarre event, the part that stood out the most was when the parents of the candidates all stood in the middle with their child and held them, and everyone prayed at the same time out loud. Some mothers whispered prayers in their ears, some were even shouting prayers at their children and some even broke down in tears mid-prayer! I have never seen anything like it.

After the service each exam room was blessed and we all ate. The school cooks had really gone all out for this occasion - there was occasional chunks of goat meat with my bowl of rice as well as the usual suspicious green stew. What a treat! Sadly we still did not merit the use of knives and forks - spoons would do for everyone.

The mood was very high and I had a good bit of banter with Mr Muchira who had piled his bowl so full of rice that it was impossible to eat any of it without dislodging some onto the floor. He told me that this bowl was merely a warm up - a taster. I then felt awkward when he justified his large helping by saying that he probably won't get the chance to eat again until tomorrow lunchtime. Again, I haven't at all mastered how to react to these comments. For instance the other day, Simon asked for an advance because he wanted his daughter to go back to school because she hadn't been for a few days due to school fees not being paid.

Despite the lush surroundings and great food I get - life is hard for most.

11th November 2007

I had an interesting day today, not sure whether I enjoyed it. After a slightly dull church service I met up with Njagi, his fiancee Becky and James the school accountant. We left for Kimunye at about 12 in a cool 4x4 which I got to drive later on. We never made it to the tailors as promised which didn't really surprise me, I have come to expect these kind of arrangements to fall through. Instead I spent the day with Njagi's family. Njagi said we would meet his grandmother.

"She is 107 and still very beautiful. You will dance with her". Of course, she wasn't at all beautiful and could barely walk let alone dance. She had also huge holes in her ears (common, couldn't speak any English and was completely mad.

(http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc416/cambridgealex/3A432CAA-C071-43DB-8213-88B599102D1E_zps7b1jk8jt.jpg) (http://s1210.photobucket.com/user/cambridgealex/media/3A432CAA-C071-43DB-8213-88B599102D1E_zps7b1jk8jt.jpg.html)

Some of the college students have given me an African name (a standard thing to do for visitors) - Kiora they chose for me, which means frog! After I let this slip in conversation, she would aggressively point at me and shout "Kiora" at seemingly random intervals.

About 3 women introduced themselves to me as Njagi's mother, and one of these women even claimed that she was my own mother. They had prepared a huge feast for us to eat, which was very nice.

The highlight of the day however has to be when I was just leaving, Njagi's aunt was holding a live chicken by its legs, trying to force it into a paper bag. "For you" she said. A gift apparently.

Honoured and frankly bewildered, I took the chicken home and gave it to Lydia next door to look after. Dinner tomorrow, I suspect!

(http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc416/cambridgealex/Kenya%202007/1923562_15912980563_6078_n_zps0qknjewc.jpg) (http://s1210.photobucket.com/user/cambridgealex/media/Kenya%202007/1923562_15912980563_6078_n_zps0qknjewc.jpg.html)

21st November 2007

Last week of school! I have an expedition to climb Mt Kenya planned and then a trip to Tanzania to see Onesmo (safari guide from last years holiday - massive lad). Can't wait for both of those.

Somehow a rumour got round school that it was my birthday and loads of kids made charming cards ad wrote lovely letters to me. A few also gave me some photos of themselves. The remarks in some of the letters were really heart warming. Most said how they loved having me as a teacher but some would say things like "Thank you for not persecuting us" (!) and my personal favourite - "you are the only fish in my pond"! They will be treasured forever.

The Class 8 s (aged 13/14) have done their exams now and are going home tomorrow. They strongly encouraged that I come to their last night party, they even told me to stay over in their dorm! I politely refused...

My Class 5 s Maths improved form 54% average to 68% - pretty proud of that. I told Class 4 s about Helen (girlfriend at the time) and showed them a photo of her. They were all saying "Wow Mr. Alex she is beautiful" and they pointed at her blonde hair and said "Teacher what is that?"! I told them it was her hair and they were amazed - "WOW Teacher!". Amazing how they'd clearly never even seen blonde hair before.

26th November 2007

Last day of school! Very sad to say goodbye to them. They were told not to cry by the headteacher but I could tell it was very hard for some of them. For me even, it was hard. I have grown very fond of a few of them. Rachael, Mercy, Maureen, Jasinta, Jackeline and Lydia from Class 4. June, Mercy, Karen and Patience from Class 5. Leaving them was difficult and I will treasure the photographs I have of them and if I return to Kenya, they are the ones I will look for.

Leaving the teachers wasn't difficult or sad. Only Njagi I have really got to know - although Mr Nyaga and Mr Muchira I like too. I will definitely see Njagi again over the next two weeks, not sure about the others.

Went for a beer with Njagi, he said "you buy me a beer", and I said "Or two, to thank you for being so kind to me?". He shook his head and I said "Ok, just one then".

"No, Ten!" he replied.

27th November 2007

Life is far from dull here. I woke up with nothing planned and actually had a really interesting and fun day.

After the bible study in the morning, I went to the school to see if any of the girls were still there. About 10 were sitting by the big tree waiting to be collected. They all looked very miserable and felt like forgotten sheep. It was a sad sight. Amongst those left was Karen Wanjiku, one of my favourites, such a sweet girl, very large and beautiful round eyes, and a kind heart. There were others I knew, I tried to assure them that their parents would be here any minute and played a bit of volleyball to entertain them.

Mr Githigi told me there was one girl a few years ago who wasn't collected until she left school completely - she spent the holidays at school and saw her Mum once on a visiting day in her second year.

One by one parents would turn up, only ever either the father or the mother, never both. Some children would run to their parents with open arms, some would trundle over and shake their parents' hand. The emotions shared by the parents were disturbing, though some were happy to see their daughter, most were not. Few or no words were exchanged between them and they wandered off out of the school gates, sometimes with the child following behind, over burdened with luggage and, I sensed, scared about what would happen once they were out of the school gate and beyond the teacher's gaze.

Mr Githigi and Mr Muchira offered to take me to some spectacular waterfalls that were nearby. They were beautiful and the surrounding landscape was amazing - a very relaxing scene. We drank from a mountain water spring.

Githigi then took us back to his shamba. I met his family and he showed me his farm. He had many chickens, a cow and to my surprise, a pet cat. He grew bananas, sugar cane, coffee, maize and pineapple and many other fruits. There was also a huge avocado tree on the other side of the road.

I witnessed the slaughtering of one of the chickens and watched them prepare and cook it, and we all enjoyed it for lunch.

You wake up here never knowing what is going to happen.

Love this flashback diary Alex.

So after school finished, I went on an expedition to climb Mount Kenya. Mount Kenya is the highest mountain in Kenya and the second-highest in Africa, after Kilimanjaro. 5199m is the peak.

It was an extremely tough and gruelling few days, but immensely rewarding. I went a bit higher later on in the year, climbing the volcano El Misti in Peru at 5825m! Haven't been close to that sort of height since.

Here's a picture of me at the top at about 430am. It's me, honest!

I then took a week long trip to Tanzania to meet up with Onesmo. Onesmo was our safari guide on our family holiday a few years before. He was also the guide for my girlfriend at the times family holiday. And in fact, he actually came over England, and stayed with their family, and it was that trip that brought Helen and I together.

So I felt I owed him, and he's a top guy and was gonna put me up for the week and show me around Tanzania. That was a pretty cool trip. We didn't do too much actually, just chilled and went out a few times - he was a big drinker, drunk vodka for breakfast etc lol, so not a lot got done!

I went (on my own) to watch a World Cup qualifying match between Ethiopia and Sudan! A bore draw 0-0, no atmosphere at all - not a memorable experience. Onesmo was busy hanging out with a hooker, who offered her services to me for £5...

Onesmo got malaria later in the week so we didn't drink as much after that...

My return flight was from Nairobi so I flew back there from Tanzania, and spent the night in a naughty hostel, £1.50 a night, with some koreans :D

The final entry in the diary will be up next...

This was him when he came over to England, with my youngest brother, Bobby on his right, aforementioned girlfriend, Helen on his left. Middle brother Mark next to me.

I enjoyed reading the updates - East Africa is an amazing place to spend time. I visit a village in Tanzania each year with various friends and keep a diary at tomintanzania.com - spending a period of time, like you've done, in one place is the best way to find out what its like, rather than breezing in and out on a luxury safari package.

Asante kwa kuandika hapa.

19th December 2007

I write this final entry on the plane home. Surrounded by the wealth and luxury that I have not been a part of for 10 weeks. There are westerners all around. A small screen in front of me. I am sitting in a comfortable seat, recalling, listening to my iPod, wearing designer clothes. I am nearly home.

What is more, when I leave this plane, waiting for me is a loving family, a large warm house and a loving girlfriend. I am certain that no more than five of the wonderful and happy people I met here, of which there were hundreds, have ever been on a plane. Most have never left their district, let alone their country.

How is it that they are more caring, kind and loving than we are? Where before, when presented with a 3 course home cooked dinner, I took it for granted, now I shall endeavour to picture the faces of the children I taught, who were filled with joy to learn they had a new teacher and would learn new things from him. I shall picture the children who walk barefoot for miles to fetch food or to go to school. The babies strapped to the backs of their mothers, crammed into a matatu, surrounded by unclean, angry locals, yet make not a sound, as this is life as they know it.

This is Africa.

As my taxi left for the airport, I had just woken but Nairobi had not. The hustle and bustle had begun long before I had risen. Perhaps it never stopped.

My final impressions of Kenya will last long in the memory and they were typical memories. Matatu drivers shouting at each other, the honking of horns, the passive traffic lights, ignored by everyone. The rising golden sun, magnificently casting its beam over the huge continent.

It feels strange to be leaving, strange to be going home. There are of course many things that I will hugely miss about Africa - the lively, helpful, friendly locals; the beautiful scenery and lush landscapes; the warm, welcoming and special school girls; watching local tribes people go about their daily lives; the joyous and appreciate people of the college; all the friends I made. They who were here long before I came and will be here long after I leave.

Amongst those treasured memories are things I am glad to be saying goodbye to, although somehow enriched the experience. Public transport - the hours wasted waiting for buses to arrive or leave are an inevitable trade off for experiencing life the African way. Throughout this experience, where possible, I have rejected tourism. I have always tried to decline special treatment. I ate what they eat, I travelled as they travel. I cannot pretend I really lived as they do - I did not. I received mostly 3 good meal meals a day, I had (mostly!) hot water, clean clothes, and a comfortable place to live.

As much as I tried to immerse myself into the culture, I was forever a tourist, a Mzungu. This, I believe, was unavoidable given the length of my stay. I experienced enough of the culture to be fascinated by it and to admire it - but I know where home is. I have not been persuaded to, as some are, emigrate here and become a local. That's not me.

This was an incredible experience, an unforgettable adventure and has surely taught me so much that can't be learnt anywhere but Africa.

Enjoyed that immensely, especially the last 'summing up' post.

Thanks Alex.

Really enjoyed this mate, thanks very much for sharing it.

Agreed also reminds me to keep a diary if I ever do anything like this!

Yeah was really good. Wish I'd have written down some of my travels.

Thanks for sharing. It shows the value of keeping diaries and journals. I wish I had done more record keeping of my own travels. However it's never to late and I shall commit to keeping a diary/journal going forward on any little adventures I may take in the future.