BKK definitely marmite. I love it. The chaos and the madness. I have stayed in parts of the City that have been disappointing but in general have enjoyed my stays there. Tours do it for me and always with a guide or you miss so much. The Grand Palace is awesome full of mind blowing architecture and history. China town at night is a vibrant spectacle and full of great restaurants and street food.
Thais are just the loveliest people. Their Buddhism upbringing has a lot to do with their outlook and non confrontational behaviour. The same all over the country.
Chiang Mai further north is a favourite of mine. The second biggest City but being further north it is cooler than BKK and more laid back. More temples than you could ever imagine.
Keep posting Tom I love trip reports of this country and it's people. BTW WTf are you doing in a McDonalds