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Author Topic: Getting Handy in 2013 - Man Skills  (Read 70013 times)
outragous76
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« Reply #330 on: May 11, 2013, 03:23:56 PM »

if the cork tiles are flush (ie edges not lifting), then give them a quick "sand down" and a if you are using a vivyl tile, cross lap the joints and you should be fine (saves lifting them).  The trick is good detailing at the perimeter to prevent any "slippage" of the vinyl tiles

If the cork tiles are poorly bonded then you will need to lift them (they often break up on removal)
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Mohican
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« Reply #331 on: May 11, 2013, 03:25:44 PM »

if the cork tiles are flush (ie edges not lifting), then give them a quick "sand down" and a if you are using a vivyl tile, cross lap the joints and you should be fine (saves lifting them).  The trick is good detailing at the perimeter to prevent any "slippage" of the vinyl tiles

If the cork tiles are poorly bonded then you will need to lift them (they often break up on removal)
Cork tiles are lifting and I'd imagine they have 20 odd years of use in them so I'm like to get rid of them for that reason as well.
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Cymru am byth
outragous76
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« Reply #332 on: May 11, 2013, 03:32:32 PM »

if the cork tiles are flush (ie edges not lifting), then give them a quick "sand down" and a if you are using a vivyl tile, cross lap the joints and you should be fine (saves lifting them).  The trick is good detailing at the perimeter to prevent any "slippage" of the vinyl tiles

If the cork tiles are poorly bonded then you will need to lift them (they often break up on removal)
Cork tiles are lifting and I'd imagine they have 20 odd years of use in them so I'm like to get rid of them for that reason as well.


only advice I can give is have some kind of sharp lifting tool with a broad leading edge! And hope that the adhesive is 20 years old too! Could be easy, could be a 'mare! GLGL
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Mohican
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« Reply #333 on: May 11, 2013, 03:52:32 PM »

if the cork tiles are flush (ie edges not lifting), then give them a quick "sand down" and a if you are using a vivyl tile, cross lap the joints and you should be fine (saves lifting them).  The trick is good detailing at the perimeter to prevent any "slippage" of the vinyl tiles

If the cork tiles are poorly bonded then you will need to lift them (they often break up on removal)
Cork tiles are lifting and I'd imagine they have 20 odd years of use in them so I'm like to get rid of them for that reason as well.


only advice I can give is have some kind of sharp lifting tool with a broad leading edge! And hope that the adhesive is 20 years old too! Could be easy, could be a 'mare! GLGL
I haz these-

plus summat similar to this if I need to use percussion removal
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Cymru am byth
outragous76
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« Reply #334 on: May 11, 2013, 03:55:43 PM »

will be scraping rather than pecussion

Id also keep it as dry as possible - dont use liquids  - itll just get messy
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simonnatur
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« Reply #335 on: May 11, 2013, 04:37:51 PM »

I've recently replaced a cork tiled floor and they were not at all easy to get up. I used a hammer and chisel. I resealed the floor afterwards with diluted PVA before laying the new tiles.
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« Reply #336 on: May 11, 2013, 11:32:28 PM »

When I removed similar a few years ago I used a wallpaper stripping tool. Pain in the ass to get all the tiles off too
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« Reply #337 on: May 15, 2013, 10:26:50 AM »

Because the cork is flexible and tears, you've really got to go in low and hard to split the bond between adhesive and floor. I'd recommend a decent shovel with an edge ground on it preferably. You can put some oomph behind it too.
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« Reply #338 on: May 15, 2013, 02:25:47 PM »

Best day ever

So I get a phone call, my Mum's boiler is flooding, really badly. Emergency plumber has been called.

I rush round not quite knowing what the hell I can do, if anything. The outside stop cock was turned off, still flooding.

After getting her dog's outside bath to start containing all the water, I manage to locate the boilers own stop cock, which is actually covered by a wooden unit which has been built around it. Screw that off, and now the stop cock itself wont turn. However a bit of the old WD40 and that changed, and I managed to stop the leak.

Proudest moment ever was the call to cancel a plumber because 'my son fixed it' (its quite a new boiler so the guy that installed it will be coming to proper fix it instead).

I know it all seems like obvious stuff, and it is, but last year not only did I not really know what a stop cock was, I barely knew what WD40 was.

 Click to see full-size image.




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outragous76
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« Reply #339 on: May 15, 2013, 02:28:28 PM »

What a boss!
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Laxie
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« Reply #340 on: May 15, 2013, 02:52:10 PM »

YAY!!!  Well done you!   
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Mohican
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« Reply #341 on: May 15, 2013, 04:41:47 PM »

Nice one Mr Shoelace.
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Cymru am byth
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« Reply #342 on: May 15, 2013, 04:42:42 PM »

Anyone have much experience with boilers?

We have a Potterton Promax boiler (think it might be this but will check when I am home http://www.potterton.co.uk/96/).

It turns itself on for about 60 seconds every so often even though we have the water turned off and the thermostats right down.

Should it be doing this as it appears to be using about 0.8-1.5 meter units of gas every day doing nothing!!
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Mohican
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« Reply #343 on: May 15, 2013, 04:44:15 PM »

I haz this grill-
 Click to see full-size image.

Which is supposed to be covering this hole in my ceiling-
 Click to see full-size image.

but it's not.
What type of screw do I need to attach former to latter,seeing as the ceiling was re-plastered in November.
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Cymru am byth
leethefish
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« Reply #344 on: May 15, 2013, 06:34:01 PM »

I haz this grill-
 Click to see full-size image.

Which is supposed to be covering this hole in my ceiling-
 Click to see full-size image.

but it's not.
What type of screw do I need to attach former to latter,seeing as the ceiling was re-plastered in November.

 Click to see full-size image.

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   If you can meet with triumph and disaster And treat those two impostors just the same......yours is the Earth and everything that's in it...And - which is more --you'll be a Man, my son.
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