Poshboy goes to Kenya. A 2007 Flashback Diary.

[cambridgealex]

In October 2007 as an innocent 18 year old fresh out of private school, I spent ten weeks in rural Kenya, as the only white man in a 50 mile radius, on a self organised project, teaching in a girls boarding school. I loved it so much I went back the following summer.

I kept a hand written diary which I thought had been tragically lost, but I found it recently, and since I anticipate a lull in my normal diary over the next few weeks, I thought I'd write up all/most/some of it here, partly as a personal record, partly to relive the experience for myself, but also for your interest and enjoyment. I don't expect much or any interaction thought it'd of course be extremely welcome - will answer any questions I can!

I would say I was pretty different then, and it'll be interesting to see whether that comes out in my writing. All my bad qualities were far worse back then I can assure you! I had been in a private school bubble all my life, never even had friends who weren't from privileged backgrounds in England - so I couldn't have been further from home comforts.

Before I start, let me tell you a bit about how the project came about and about the school a bit.

I was in a Church youth group for sometime in my teenage years. One of the guys that ran it (Lee) had some connection with a University there, and had been over on a church mission. It was an extremely religious area and he knew of a primary school right next door.

I was looking for a project to get stuck into on my gap year, and wanted as far an authentic experience as I could get. So when I learned that he could set me up over there for 10 weeks, I grabbed it with both hands.

The school were happy to have the help. It was a private girls boarding school for ages 8-13. Relatively, it was a really good school. I was a volunteer of course, and paid for accommodation in a guest house nearby. I was looked after by the owner of the guest house, Simon, but he didn't live there.

I haven't re read this diary since I wrote it almost 8 years ago. The first few entries aren't so interesting, about the journey etc, I think I'll pick and choose the best bits to post. So we'll start the day before I start the teaching.

OK here goes...

[cambridgealex]

14th October 2007

"My name is Alex and I am saved!"

My first experience of church in Kenya! I woke at 730 for breakfast and a shower (which was long overdue - not a great experience, lukewarm and a trickle - I think baths might be the way to go!). Nancy Mutungu (head teacher) picked me up around 930 and took me to the schools church. We joined the service halfway through and I sat near the back and tried to keep a low profile. Being the only white person there, this was never really going to happen and it wasn't long before I was brought to the front of the church and made to introduce myself.

"My name is Alex and I am saved!"

This is the standard way of introducing oneself Lee had told me, not something even he, as a vicar, was comfortable with. Luckily, they didn't think I was too odd, and gave me a round of applause. The hymns were enjoyable to sing and were what I expected. After about 4 bars, you could predict how the rest of it was going to go and the refrains nearly always consisted of a "Oh Praise the Lord!" sort of chant. People harmonised (rarely successfully), clapped along (sometimes in time) and danced and swayed too. I had a flashback to the scene in Borat in the church...

I found the whole experience quite enjoyable, certainly something I can bear to sit through once a week. Though I think I might be expected to go every day! The worship was a lot more passionate than English worship and they persuaded me to comeback to their church next sunday and no-one elses!

Nancy then took me to the school and introduced me to each class. As we entered each classroom, the children were all sitting at their desks working (remember this is Sunday), in complete silence, under no teacher supervision. As good as gold. They all stood up as one when we entered.

"Hello girls, how are you?" Nancy said.

"Fine thank you Mrs Mutungu". In perfect unison. The discipline was first class. Nancy introduced me, and the children were  filled with joy when she told them I would be teaching them. Mr Alex I was now called. I then spoken to them, telling them where I was from and that I would be teaching them Maths, Music, Computer and P.E. Their eyes lit up and they started clapping. Nancy then asked them to repeat some of the information I had told them (like a listening test). Given that English is their third language (behind KiSwahili and Kikuru), I was mightily impressed that they could all recite all that I'd said. A couple of the classes even sang a song for me when requested! The class sizes ranged between 12 and 35. Very small compared to most Kenyan schools.

Most of my nerves about teaching were subsided by this brief tour and my spirits were high as Nancy took me into her home.

I met her husband, daughter, granddaughter and her son, who offered to take me out before lunch. He had his own car and said I could drive it which sounded exciting. We picked up a few people on our drive through Kabare (the village) and had a full car by the time we reached the edge of Kabare. I soon realised that this was a social drive, almost like he wanted to show me off to his friends, rather than to see any sights.

I was to drive back, however by this time, there were now 6 other people to take back. 2 guys shared the passenger seat, while 4 people squeezed in the back. The car was not built for this and nor were the roads! All mud and full of potholes. I didn't once leave 2nd gear.

We stopped at a bar overlooking a beautiful valley and had a drink. I offered to pay for my drink but they took that to mean I would pay for all their drinks! At 50p a drink I wasn't too fussed, but I quickly saw I would have to be careful where money was concerned. Lee had warned me not to be afraid to put my foot down.

It was 330 by the time we got back, and though lunch was OK, it made me appreciate Simon's cooking even more. I made my excuses and went home after that, I still feel jet lagged so needed a nap. I had a nice dinner with Simon and Graham (A vicar sharing the guest house with me for a few days) and then played three games of backgammon with Graham before retiring to bed (having had a bath with some very dirty coloured water...)

[celtic]

In first ✋

Should be decent. Try not to change any bits please, though I'm sure you won't.

Lolled at trying to keep a low profile in an area where there were no white people for 50 miles

[Marky147]

This is going to be very interesting.

WAL, ending up on a jolly with Kenya's answer to Vin 

[iangascoigne]

   This is great. How pleased you must be to find the diary and many thanks for sharing.

[atdc21]

In

[tikay]

This should be well worth reading, thanks Alex.


 I had been in a private school bubble all my life, never even had friends who weren't from privileged backgrounds in England


All things considered, you've turned out pretty well, I'd say. That sort of upbringing does not always end well, or with a well balanced adult. Your parents must be incredibly proud.

"Church Youth Group". By choice, or wish? Do you still attend church, or was it just a phase you passed though?

I attended Church for around 8 years as a child, but only because I was forced to. I've never attended since, though more & more, I think I should. Not because I'm religious, but it just feels like something nagging away in my mind, essentially a good, or at least well-intended, thing. Spending too long in Casinos or playing poker online just feels like it needs some balance.  

[Redbull]

Glad you found the diary, Kenya sounds an interesting place. Quite fancy going on a safari there one day.

[Young_gun]

Look forward to hearing more, it already seems quite an experience 

[cambridgealex]

This should be well worth reading, thanks Alex.


 I had been in a private school bubble all my life, never even had friends who weren't from privileged backgrounds in England


All things considered, you've turned out pretty well, I'd say. That sort of upbringing does not always end well, or with a well balanced adult. Your parents must be incredibly proud.

"Church Youth Group". By choice, or wish? Do you still attend church, or was it just a phase you passed though?

I attended Church for around 8 years as a child, but only because I was forced to. I've never attended since, though more & more, I think I should. Not because I'm religious, but it just feels like something nagging away in my mind, essentially a good, or at least well-intended, thing. Spending too long in Casinos or playing poker online just feels like it needs some balance.   

It was all because of music. I was in the church choir from ages 8 or something until my voice broke at 13/14. I was head chorister at the time. It was never about the religious side of it, I've always loved church music, so no it was not a phase. I only go at Christmas now, but still listen to the music and enjoy it with my family.

Interesting angle about the upbringing. You make it sound like my parents must be proud of me to have come through that upbringing and still be alright! I think they would think of it as the opposite! I jolly well should be alright given they upbringing I had!

There's so many hidden things that private school has given me, it goes way beyond the grades. But without some perspective at some point in your life, you will struggle in many situations in the real world I think. Many of my peers will have never even experienced that yet though. Straight from school -> Oxbridge -> London being a city banker, they may coast through life without ever leaving the bubble.

I have had this gap year experience plus 3 separate travelling jaunts (South America, South East Asia, Central America) to thank for getting me out of the bubble, and of course poker may've been the biggest influence yet.

[cambridgealex]

17th October 2007

School is going well. The level of Maths is very poor (Mean around 55%) but English and Science much better (mean 65% and 70%). The Staffroom banter is top notch. I get on really well with the two guys in my corner (Mr Njagi and Mr Githigi). Mr Njagi is outrageously sexist. Here are some of his best quotes.

On Women

Him "You have a girlfriend?"
Me "Yes"
"Are you married?"
"No"
"But you are engaged, yes?"
"No"
"Why not? Do you not want to marry her?"
"We have only been together a short while, I don't know yet"
"Do you want to marry a Kenyan?"
"Probably not"
"I can find you a beautiful one, educated"
"I already have a beautiful one"
"But you say you are not sure?"
....
"Do you beat her"
"No!"
"Why not?"
"It is illegal in England to beat someone"
"Yes, but women need to be disciplined. Were you canned in school?"
"No"
"Why not"
"That is illegal too"
"But at home, yes?"
"No it's illegal"
"I know I know, but AT HOME?"
"....."
"Children and women need to have more discipline in England. It is not a problem in Kenya, women are defenceless, there is nothing they can do, except leave the husband, but then they have no money"

Him "How do you keep your relationship secret from her parents"
Me "I dont, they know we are together"
"They approve?! (laughs) If Mr Githigi saw a boy with his daughter, he would run for his gun!"

***

Everyday the culture differences are becoming more apparent.

-The girls have their candidate number sown into their uniform.
-Between classes, they have to run everywhere (to prevent dawdling).
-They get up at 345am, start reading at 4, breakfast at 6, porridge, 11, lunch 1, bed by 9.
-Saturdays they help clean the school and have their head shaved ( yes all the girls had shaven heads so they're not distracted by doing their hair).
-Sundays is church at 7am until 9am.
-They have to wear a white sheet (like a ghost!) if they speak the wrong language (English Monday-Thursday, Kiswahili Friday-Sunday).
-They get beaten, and this is encouraged by the parents.
-Prayer Day - set aside for wishing eldest pupils luck in their national exams
-Some have badges saying "Best in Maths/ English" etc and also "cleanest pupil".

When I got home yesterday, I asked Simon how we was. He said "OK, but I gotta de Maleria dis mornin". His casual tone and lack of panic told me that this happens regularly (about twice a year I established).

I had my first contact with the outside world after school today. Made use of the one internet connection in the village in the principals office to send an email home. 1 hour and 20 minutes of getting disconnected, reconnected etc, and the email was sent!

[Kev B]

Enjoying this Alex. Looking forward to more.

[BorntoBubble]

In, do we get a video montage at the end?

[FredW]

That conversation about women was hilarious. Sounds like Kenyans have some GREAT banter!

[cambridgealex]

17th October 2007

School was good today, they finished their exams so I got to do PE and Computer lessons for the first time. In PE I played and taught volleyball with standard 4 (the youngest class), that was good fun and the kids really enjoyed it.

More good staff banter with Mr Njagi. He told me to bring Helen (girlfriend at the time) to Kenya one day so he can spit on her! I asked why, he said "to bless her"!

Graham left today, I'll miss his company in the evenings. The solitude didn't last for long. Out of the blue, 5 men walked into the house and apparently would be spending the night here! Although slightly taken aback, I recognised them from the church service I'd just been in.

This was a good and actually enjoyable experience. The service lasted 2 hours and was full of lively singing, dancing and even some instrumental backing. This was rarely in the same key as the singing but enriched the worship somehow! By the end I was getting into the spirit of it, clapping and even the occasional foot tap! Oh dear...i'm on a slippery slope to dedicating my life to God!

I feel such a fraud saying things like this, but as long no-one here finds out, I am safe under my "I am saved" cover...for now...

There is thunder and lightning coming from outside now so I will get some rest.

Don't understand that last line lol